Bathed in the neon glow of the Fergusons Motel sign, the patio at La Monja Cantina creates a feeling of breezy luxury. While the interior is an intimate and highly designed dining space with murals, picture windows and stained glass, the outdoor portion offers expansive views of Fremont Street and the adjacent grassy interior courtyard.
Most diners will stumble across La Monja (Spanish for “the nun”) because of its location, and they’ll discover a gem helmed by one of the most interesting chefs in Las Vegas. With culinary chops honed in Japan, Dan Krohmer is known for his Japanese restaurants Other Mama and Hatsumi (the latter located just across the Fergusons courtyard), which makes this cantina concept a clever outlier. Still, there are still Japanese influences on La Monja’s menu, like the michelada ($10), which draws upon smoked tomato and yuzu, the Japanese citrus fruit.
The menu will continue evolving—Krohmer has plans for additional lunch, brunch and late-night options—but there’s plenty of Baja-inspired cuisine to enjoy in the meantime. The showstopping El Guapo tostada ($13) piles on the shellfish and avocado. The spicy grilled shrimp ($17) is served over a crispy fried black bean gordita—creating a delightful contrast between the healthy protein and the indulgent pastry. And for a flavor sampler, try the Baja seafood cocktail ($15), which includes shrimp, crab, octopus and whitefish.
If you have a more carnivorous appetite, try the rustic pozole soup ($11). Pork shoulder anchors the dish, accented by onion, lime and nixtamal corn. Additionally, the lamb and pork meatballs ($13) are served in a rich and spicy tomato and cream sauce.
La Monja’s take on elote uses baby corn instead of corn on the cob, adding cotija cheese and achiote aioli for a dish hearty enough to serve as a vegetarian entree.
Newcomers might consider starting during happy hour (5-7 p.m.), which offers $1 oysters, $5 classic margaritas and more. Between those deals, the mezcal-focused bar and a menu that should only grow stronger, it’s a safe bet you’ll be back before long.
LA MONJA 1028 Fremont St., #190, 702-848-3530. Tuesday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.
