The pandemic knocked out several notable Las Vegas Strip experiences, but Mexican food’s arrival at Wynn wasn’t one of them. The first iteration, Elio, was shuttered a year ago after its operators parted ways with each other and with Wynn, but the resort soldiered on by redesigning the space, formerly Andrea’s at Encore, and holding onto talented executive chef Sarah Thompson, who had come from the acclaimed Cosme in New York City’s Flatiron District.
The result of this strong second effort is Casa Playa, one of the most refined Mexican restaurants the Strip has ever seen. The previously minimalist dining room has been enlivened by a ceiling installation of cascading marigolds, and the energetic lounge space is a cozy place for a meal or just for sampling mixologist Mariena Mercer Boarini’s imaginative cocktails.
The cuisine is decidedly coastal, and the menu is a mix of exciting, surprising flavors and homey, traditional offerings. Wynn Resorts has always aimed to lead dining trends on the Strip, so it makes sense to expect a lot from Casa Playa. Thompson and her team do not disappoint.
Begin the experience with a selection from the crudo menu, ranging from oysters with prickly pear mignonette to yellowfin tuna tartare ($24) with avocado and pasilla chilies. The Mexican blue shrimp ceviche ($24) offers out-of-this-world freshness, with soothing flavors of coconut, tomatillo and cucumber.
Shareable seafood platters are also an option, but don’t skip other appetizers like burrata with morita salsa ($17), addictive tetelas ($15)—blue corn masa purses filled with mushrooms and cheese—or a duck confit tamale with mole and ricotta. The flavors are rich and warm, connecting you with your base understanding of this cuisine, but they’re often paired with unexpected ingredients to broaden your perception of what Mexican food can be.
You can get fried fish ($17) or carne asada tacos ($18) from the appetizer section, too, but press on with the exploration of the new and you’ll be rewarded. Cauliflower al pastor ($29) with pineapple butter and cashew salsa is next-level Vegas vegan dining, even at Wynn, where that’s been a thing for a long time. Yucatan chicken pibil ($42) is a huge portion of soulful food, perfectly kissed by adobo made with orange and annatto. And the branzino a la talla ($36-$70)—flaky fish lacquered with guajillo adobo and served with simple herbs and salsa cruda—is my favorite new entree of the year.
You’ll want to share the playful churros ($24) with your tablemates to close the meal, but don’t skip the toasted coconut and white chocolate tres leches cake ($14). It’s sublime.
CASA PLAYA Encore, 702-770-5340. Wednesday-Sunday, 6 p.m.-midnight.
