Taste

Makai Island Grill puts the personal touch on the classic Hawaiian lunch plate

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Makai Island Grill’s “ono’est” plate with chicken katsu, mochiko wings, poke and kimchee slaw
Photo: Wade Vandervort

It took me far too long to check out Makai Island Grill, a local Hawaiian barbecue chain that’s been around for more than five years and recently blossomed with four convenient locations around the Valley.

I’ve always been obsessed with the traditional island-style plate lunch, grilled or fried proteins with big scoops of white rice and a bit of creamy macaroni salad, and Makai takes the build-it-yourself, assembly-line approach to this simple and satisfying meal. You can start with a one-meat small plate and work your way up to the “ono’est” three-meat plate, or opt for a rice bowl or salad, with prices generally ranging from $6 to $18.

I’ve eaten tons of kalua pig, teriyaki meats, chicken katsu and fried fish at different Hawaiian joints around town, but Makai adds two entrees to its selection that you don’t see at most of these eateries—tuna poke and mochiko chicken. While the poke is fresh and served in an adequate portion ($1.25 upcharge on your plate, bowl or salad), the mochiko wings really stood out on my plate, complete with the tasty little caramelized crunchies that come from frying in a sweet rice flour batter. Makai’s kalua ($3.75 a la carte) is also terrific, big, juicy chunks of roasted pork that go great with rice doused in some spicy teriyaki sauce.

You can truly make this plate lunch your own by switching over to brown rice and choosing from other side dishes including sweet corn, kimchee coleslaw, garlic edamame or salad greens. I’m not sure if you’re doing it right without that mac salad, but I’m all for freedom of lunch.

MAKAI ISLAND GRILL Four locations, makaigrill.com. Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...

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