A&E

Delilah’s throwback vibes and fantastic food beckon on the Las Vegas Strip

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Wagyu beef Wellington at Delilah
Photo: Wade Vandervort

If a new version of the Roaring ’20s born from the pandemic actually comes to be—a wild era of celebration and artistic extravagance once it’s fully acceptable to mingle and express oneself once again—Delilah Las Vegas could be the epicenter of it all. The new restaurant at Wynn takes heavy inspiration from the actual Roaring ’20s, but more importantly, it feels like the most elevated place to completely cut loose, to indulge in extravagance, even if only for one night.

Delilah's interior

Delilah's interior

Much has been said about Delilah’s grand design and decor, imagined by Todd Avery-Lenahan. It’s over-the-top glamorous, also inspired by vintage supper clubs of more recent eras and fully awash in shimmering features like gold chandeliers and brass palm trees. The Strip has so many venues that wow you when you walk in, but entering Delilah’s sunken dining room from the Hollywood safari-themed Bubble Bar feels like walking into a movie—specifically Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 take on The Great Gatsby. You literally have to see it to understand the vibe, since photos aren’t allowed.

Developed for months and delayed a year-plus by the pandemic, Delilah is the first Las Vegas venue from h.wood Group founders and LA scene-makers John Terzian and Brian Toll, who have already planned the next expansion to Miami in early 2022. While the Wynn spot—near Wing Lei in the space formerly occupied by fine-dining favorite Alex—continues the marriage of stylish dining and live entertainment they originated in West Hollywood, the Vegas version amps up every aspect of the experience. It intentionally overwhelms, in a nice way.

Still, all that excitement won’t overshadow the restaurant’s phenomenal food. At the helm is Las Vegas native (and new dad) Joshua Smith, who managed to make Michael Mina’s Bardot Brasserie at Aria a locals’ favorite on the Strip and is clearly up for modernizing classics here.

Scattered among shellfish platters, steaks and king crab Caesar salads ($26) are a few Delilah signatures like chicken tenders ($25); Kendall’s Slutty Brownie dessert ($19,) named after you-know-who; and the oddly delicious carrot soufflé ($22), which needs to become a side dish at every Thanksgiving dinner from here to eternity. But the majority of the menu is made for Vegas, including Smith’s perfect mimolette fondue macaroni gratinee ($22), delicately steamed halibut with bright sauce vierge ($48) and a burrata panzanella salad ($19) with great tomatoes and focaccia croutons. The showstoppers are the fanciest fish and chips you’ve ever seen ($72), potato-crusted dover sole with playful malt vinegar beurre blanc sauce, and the majestic beef Wellington ($170), meant for two.

Delilah is one of the biggest and boldest examples of the current Strip trend that adds extra dimension to dining, so you don’t have to go to another venue as your night develops. But don’t fall into comparisons with other new supper club experiences; this place has its own character and style, and it’s already on the must-do Vegas checklist.

DELILAH Wynn, 702-770-3300. Wednesday-Sunday, 5:30 p.m.-late.

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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...

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