- Comme Ça
- Cosmopolitan, 698-7910.
- Monday-Thursday, 5:30-11 p.m.; Friday-Sunday, noon-11 p.m.
Chef Brian Howard calls it the perfect oyster. After one juicy bite—no lemon, no horseradish, nothing at all—I’m calling it every overused foodie adjective in the book. This is a magical oyster, and Comme Ça is the only place you can taste it in Las Vegas.
Island Creek oysters are farmed from Duxbury Bay on the coast of Massachusetts. They’re served at the producer’s bar in Boston—talk about farm-to-table—and delivered to dozens of restaurants in the area and New York, but they’re scarcely found in the west outside of the Bay Area and Thomas Keller’s famed French Laundry. Lucky for us, Cosmo’s brasserie just started shucking ’em.
They have the standard light, clean notes of the freshest raw oysters you’ve ever tasted, plus an electrifyingly savory bolt of intensely briny flavor. The taste is huge, beyond compare. Squeeze a little lemon and the flavor becomes smooth, round, ultimately satisfying. This is what happens when farmers become obsessed with carefully crafting the best possible product. If you need me, I’ll be celebrating their efforts at Comme Ça’s bar.