Not unlike the stereotypical mad scientist, chefs sometimes unleash truly terrifying abominations upon humanity, even if they are oh-so-tasty. The latest example is KoMex’s current riff on the BLT, the PBBBLT ($7). The sandwich’s foundation is a thick layer of pork belly (the “PB”), pouring out from which is a heaping helping of the middle “B”—bulgogi, the signature marinated and grilled Korean beef at the heart of KoMex’s menu. Delivered alongside sriracha mayo, it’s an unwieldy dish as tough to eat as it is to say, but it’s worth the struggle, a masterful myriad of meaty textures and flavors, a wonderfully delicious mess.

KoMex Fusion 633 N. Decatur Blvd., 646-1612. Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday 11 a.m.-4 p.m.