Site not look beautiful? Click here

Dining

New Japanese eats: A first taste of Yusho

Image
A steamed bun filled with panko-fried oyster.
Photo: Brock Radke

Generally, Las Vegas restaurant menus are too big. There are an overwhelming number of options to choose from, and it’s not always easy to decipher a specialty, which dishes the restaurant does best.

At Yusho, the brand-new Japanese grill and noodle house at Monte Carlo created by Chicago chef Matthias Merges, the exact opposite is true. I wanted to order and eat every dish on its compact menu and then hope Merges would add more small, shareable bites to the selection.

Yusho's remarkable grilled chicken wings are boneless, smoky and delicious, served with lime and bonito salt.

Yusho's remarkable grilled chicken wings are boneless, smoky and delicious, served with lime and bonito salt.

The first thing you’ll notice is Yusho’s draught cocktail program, a concept that seems to be popping up on the Strip more frequently these days. These drinks ($13) are made in batches every few days and poured from a tap just like your favorite beer, fresh, seasonal takes on classic cocktails punched up with a little carbonation. There’s a gin and tonic, a fragrant and refreshing daiquiri, and a robust, almost smoky booze cola with dark and white rum and a slightly sour throwback cola recipe. These fun cocktails are a perfect match for Yusho’s sometimes whimsical food.

On this first visit, I sampled small plates of pickles ($9), chicken wings ($9), octopus ($15), vegetable tempura ($17), three different steamed buns ($9-$10), the Japanese griddle cake ($17) and a bowl of grilled shrimp ramen ($22). We Las Vegas eaters are used to getting this kind of food—inspired by yakitori grill houses and izakaya pubs—from off-Strip eateries at low prices. Yusho’s prices are very friendly; the spendiest bite is aged New York strip steak grilled with mushroom and peppercorn ($39).

Grilled octopus with haricot vert, egg yolk and enoki mushroom.

Grilled octopus with haricot vert, egg yolk and enoki mushroom.

I loved just about every dish. The chicken wings are mind-blowing, three boneless bites of smoky, rich meat complete with crispy skin. My favorite steamed bun was filled with house-made “chub” sausage, an unctuous blood sausage topped with a bit of pickled cauliflower. The okonomiyaki pancake was packed with sweet chunks of squid and topped with an earthy eggplant puree and a crisp, Thai-influenced green papaya salad. And the finisher was coffee soft-serve ice cream drizzled with Fernet caramel. You’re going to want to eat that, too.

Yusho Monte Carlo, 730-6888. Sunday-Wednesday, 3 p.m.-midnight; Thursday-Saturday, 3 p.m.-2 a.m.

Tags: Dining
Share
Photo of Brock Radke

Brock Radke is editor at Industry Weekly and associate editor at Las Vegas Weekly. His focus at both publications is ...

Get more Brock Radke

Commenting Policy

  • If you need a little drama with your steamed sea bass and crispy beef, you’ll appreciate this experience.

  • After eating at Chengdu, you might want to stroll over to the Golden Tiki and cool off with some Dole Whip.

  • Plus, Burger Lounge is coming to Aria, February is super-sweet at Hexx, and Via Brasil is doing Carnival.

  • Get More Dining Stories
Top of Story