It's marinated in fresh herbs, juice from tomatoes and other fruits and vegetables, and cooked unconventionally—at least in these parts—in a searing-hot pan. Then, this 20-ounce, bone-in ribeye steak ($40) is finished in the broiler, creating a savory char-crust that perfectly complements the juicy, flavorful interior, and also reminding us that Palace Station's old-school steakhouse used to be called just that—the Broiler. Now, it's transitioned into the Charcoal Room, a softly sleek dining room that maintains the warm service and reasonable prices longtime diners expect. And this pan-seared ribeye is the signature steak, the bite where it all begins.

The Charcoal Room menu is an overall upgrade on the Broiler, adding a little more variety. But the favorite cuts are all here, from porterhouse to prime rib, keeping the vintage steakhouse experience intact. There's something special about this ribeye. I didn't expect a meal at Palace Station to rival the more grand, more expensive Strip steak spots, but this impeccable slab of meat blew me away, not just due to the astounding flavor (with the assist from a creamy peppercorn sauce) but also the surprisingly smooth texture. It was the perfect beefy bite, over and over again.

The Charcoal Room Palace Station, 702-223-6678. Sunday-Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5-11 p.m.