I’ve devoured six petite portions of Hawaiian fish with names I mostly can’t pronounce. There was monchong, meaty and firm, and hapu’upu’u, a delicate sea bass that perfectly absorbed its topping of mandarin wedges, dill and olive oil.
Citrus-topped kale kale at Lakeside.
All six were delicious, but I’m stuck on this kale kale. Chef David Walzog offers another taste, this time with the citrusy topping in place of the artichokes, tomatoes and oregano that topped my first piece. The alternative flavors make this mild, flaky snapper seem like an entirely different fish. Walzog explains that it’s a juvenile opakapaka, or Hawaiian pink snapper, and one of the only species of fish in Hawaii that will be caught and kept at this age and size; normally youngsters would be thrown back into the sea.
Walzog takes my oceanic education further, slicing up some raw kale kale, sashimi-style, with a little ponzu sauce for dipping. The pinkish, nearly translucent slivers of meat taste clean and bright, a pure sample of the sea.
A sampling of Hawaiian fish at Lakeside.
It’s very much like Walzog to go the extra mile to show you how fantastic food can be. He oversees Wynn’s Lakeside seafood restaurant and SW Steakhouse, two luxurious spots positioned at the resort’s Lake of Dreams. This sampling is designed to highlight Lakeside’s new Ocean to Table program, a partnership with a fleet of Hawaiian day boats that brings a uniquely fresh catch to Wynn.
Lakeside is the only stateside restaurant working with this group of fishermen, and many of the species served won’t be found elsewhere. Among them: ehu, or short tail red snapper; monchong, also known as sickle pomfret and caught only in small quantities from deep waters; and nairagi, a blue striped marlin. The fish are available for $40 to $50.
Many of the Hawaiian fish served at Lakeside won’t be found elsewhere.
Walzog, who makes regular trips to the islands and jumps on the boats to do some fishing of his own, is advised daily on which fish are available and at their best. The fish are cooked simply and served with a choice of one or several preparations that will highlight—not overpower—natural flavors and textures. The Mediterranean and citrus options are ideal, but if you want to lux it up, go for the caviar beurre blanc. It’s a perfectly rich partner for the ehu.
This creative new offering is just one reason to visit the often-overlooked Lakeside, opened in 2011 in the space originally occupied by Daniel Boulud Brasserie. (Boulud recently returned to the Strip with DB Brasserie at Venetian.) Few venues have modernized the classic Las Vegas seafood restaurant with the style and grace of Lakeside, a sprawling, bright space replete with mosaic-tiled floor, golden boulders embedded in the walls, a glass-encased kitchen and a spacious patio. The menu also contains a peerless live lobster program, the infamous king crab guacamole, grilled Spanish octopus, Pacific halibut, Mediterranean dover sole, lobster risotto and other seasonal seafood offerings along with several steaks.
In a city known for expensive eating, Lakeside is one spot worth the splurge.
Lakeside Wynn, 770-3310. Daily, 5:30-10 p.m.
