Food

[On the Hunt]

Tamale safari: Exploring the Valley’s diverse array of the ancient snack

Image
Masa wonderland: Vegenation’s meatless tamales.
Photo: Mikayla Whitmore
Greg Thilmont

The tamale is much more than a humble selection in a Mexican restaurant combination plate; it’s one of the world’s oldest composed foods. Fillings have been stuffed into masa (corn meal dough) and steamed in husks for at least 8,000 years in Central America. Contemporary diners are no strangers to tamales—they’re common enough, especially in the big-hitter local chains. These five establishments, however, are perhaps lesser-known purveyors of the portable comestibles.

Situated in the far northwestern sliver of Las Vegas, Leticia’s Mexican Cocina (7585 Norman Rockwell Lane, 702-445-7722) seems to be something of a secret. Inside, you’ll find a visual riot of Latin flair and a menu to match the local Mexican juggernauts. Leticia’s offers a quartet of unwrapped fatties ($12), tamales the size of burritos, including chicken in tomatillo sauce, pork in a tangy guajillo pepper sauce, and cheese. There’s also a smoky version with chipotle-augmented, fajitas-style vegetables.

Some might consider tamales to be peasant or folk food, but at the grand Mundo (495 S. Grand Central Parkway, 702-270-4400), they’re elevated entrées. In this stylish dining room in the megalithic World Market Center, these tamales explode with three types of gourmet abundance. In one, chipotle-glazed shrimp ($18) are spiked with a red chile-brandy sauce and queso fresco. The beef short rib tamale ($14) is lusty with pasilla chile sauce, corn relish, queso fresco and salsa fresca. The pulled chicken ($12) has tomatillo sauce, queso fresco and salsa fresca. All three are gorgeous, to boot.

Carlito's Burritos' super-meaty tamales.

Carlito's Burritos' super-meaty tamales.

While the tamales at Leticia’s and Mundo trace back to Mexico, the corn-husked packets sold at Carlito’s Burritos (3345 E. Patrick Lane, 702-547-3592) are from the unique cultural realm of New Mexico. This small, busy and friendly shop sells the basic varieties ($2.95): red chile pork, green chile pork or green chile chicken. It’s the sauces that make Carlito’s a true destination. It trucks in certified capsicum annuum from the state’s famed Hatch valley. Because of this, Carlito’s green sauce is amazingly bright and fruity tasting, and the red sauce is rich and complex. Can’t decide which one you want? Do like they do in Albuquerque and go “Christmas”—both sauces at once.

Just as Carlito’s takes a slight culinary detour from Mesoamerica, so does Cookie’s BBQ Rib Shack (1216 W. Owens Avenue, 702-544-0625), a low-key eatery in West Las Vegas. While Cookie’s specializes in smoked meats, it does sell some wicked-hot tamales ($2). An interpretation of the snack became popular in the Mississippi Delta region in the early part of the 20th century, and it spread, along with other soul food eats, in later decades. Of special note with Cookie’s tamales are their irregular shapes—some are skinny, some are somewhat squat. Most tamale makers standardize their product, but the hands behind Cookie’s tamales follow the natural form of the corn husks they use as molds. Look for the big “tamales” banner outside.

Venturing furthest from the Central American tamale heartland are the lovely meatless tamales at Vegenation (616 E. Carson Ave. #120, 702-366-8515). These tamales ($5.85) are intricate little baskets of organic masa, lentils and diced chili. They look like food sculpture and help hip vegans get their tamale fix. Since they are not slathered in cheese nor are they infused with animal juices, ask for some sriracha on the side.

Tags: Dining, Food
Share
  • It’s a different kind of Mediterranean restaurant, drawing heavily from Mina’s Egyptian heritage to repackage familiar food with robust, Middle Eastern flavors.

  • On our last visit we were lucky to try the special of the day, filet mignon wrapped in crispy pancetta with a mound of Parmesan ...

  • Experience unmatched March basketball viewing parties in Las Vegas! Join SAHARA Las Vegas, Resorts World, South Point and more from March 21-24 for large screens, ...

  • Get More Dining Stories
Top of Story