Culinary change continues at Wynn and Encore, so much so that a quick interior update at what is likely the resorts’ most successful restaurant may have gone unnoticed.
A brief rundown of what’s going on: Interior renovations at Wing Lei and Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare were completed early last year before it was announced that chef Paul Bartolotta will depart his post, to be replaced by chef Marc LoRusso; Botero, where LoRusso was stationed, is being reconcepted and redesigned into a three-meal restaurant, which should be a perfect fit for its poolside location; Society Café, which has served as that steady three-meal restaurant at Encore, will close soon and probably become something other than a restaurant; and a multi-million dollar renovation at the Buffet will soon be underway.
Now that we’re all caught up, check out the soothingly fancy new digs at SW Steakhouse, always one of the Strip’s most lucrative and delicious chophouses. The new colors are white, cream and copper, with gold accents (of course) and houndstooth carpeting designed by Roger Thomas (of course). A striking Tim Bavington greets you in the lobby-lounge, its layers of color against a rust-colored wall setting the tone for the rest of the room, which is wrapped in stone and fabric textures that mimic the desert walls. If you’re like me and you prefer to take a steakhouse meal at the steakhouse bar, you’ll appreciate the shimmering white marble and woven gold embedded in the bar top.
The $1 million-plus re-do was accomplished in a few weeks, impressive but unsurprising as SW is always packed and should never be allowed a lengthy hiatus. The consistent cuisine, supervised by chef David Walzog, hasn’t been renovated—other than its regular routine of new seasonal dishes that are rotated in and out. Right now there’s yellowfin tuna tartar ($24) with pickled vegetables and tangy Korean gochujang paste, a fun twist on caprese salad with crispy cheese wheels and heirloom tomato, and black truffle and Romanesco cauliflower risotto ($34), among other new offerings and longtime favorites. SW remains one of the top places in the country to eat A5-graded Japanese Wagyu beef—or, you know, just beef in general—and you can’t dine here without indulging in sides like Brussels sprouts ($14) with Andouille sausage and mustard cream, poblano and bacon mac and cheese ($14) and the European-style crispy potato roti with chive cream ($16).
SW is a high-roller favorite and potential special-occasion dining destination for the rest of us. It’s just a bit better now, if that’s possible.
SW Steakhouse Wynn, 888-352-3463. Daily, 5:30-10 p.m.