Taste

Bite Now: Bumblebee Stew at J. Gumbo’s

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J. Gumbo’s Bumblebee Stew is a gluten-free and vegan riff on maque choux, a Creole and Native American mashup.
Photo: Steve Marcus
Jason Harris

I like the concept of J. Gumbo’s. Creating fast yet fulfilling versions of Cajun favorites and making them more accessible for everybody is smart. It seems to have struck a nerve with diners throughout the U.S.; the chain has outposts everywhere from Florida to Wisconsin—and now Las Vegas.

A graphic cutout of a thermometer lets diners know how high on the heat scale they can expect each entrée. And while one’s eyes might light up as the thermometer gets hotter, the most delectable dish I tried was about as mild as possible. Bumblebee Stew—my current favorite name of any dish anywhere—is J. Gumbo’s riff on maque choux, a Creole and Native American mashup. Sweet corn, stewed tomatoes and onions are given ample cooking time with a sweet sauce, creating a burst of flavors with some unifying tastes throughout. Corn permeates every bite, and a finishing touch of black beans adds balance for when things might get just a hint too sweet.

It’s both gluten-free and vegan, so those with dietary restrictions needn’t worry here. As an entrée, it runs $9.99, but for another dollar patrons can add a second dish to the giant bowl in which it’s served. The stew mixes well with another mild option, the tasty drunken chicken. The tender meat benefits from a beer braise and a thick sauce that goes perfectly over rice. Drunken Bumblebee—sounds yummy, doesn’t it?

J. Gumbo's 3565 S. Rainbow Blvd., 702-269-5446. Daily, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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