Taste

DB Brasserie’s duck-and-truffle tasting menu is a worthy indulgence

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Vincent Pouessel recently took the helm of Daniel Boulud’s DB Brasserie at Venetian.
Edison Graff
Jason Harris

DB Brasserie has stepped up big time in the tasting menu game with its new seasonal concept. The Venetian restaurant has made a claim it can compete with any of the other restaurants in the Daniel Boulud empire in terms of creativity and technique with this five-course menu, which is actually a steal at $99.

A look inside db Brasserie at The Venetian.

Executive chef Vincent Pouessel describes the mission: "We wanted to come up with a way to focus on a theme of sorts, utilizing one protein, focusing on a very seasonal item or items." The first menu, which runs February 22-28, is all about duck and truffles.

Among the delicious offerings is a double duck consommé that's as soothing and decadent a soup as one could have. The broth is simmered down twice and on its own would be slurp-worthy. Root vegetables and mushrooms bulk the dish up. Shaved Perigord black truffles are the final component.

The chef's riff on moulard duck a'lorange is true to the classic French preparation but feels modern as well. It's rich, but the sides of braised Belgium endive and salardaise potatoes—properly crisped and soaking up the excess Grand Marnier gastrique from the duck—are able to cut through and give necessary layers of flavor to the dish.

Dessert is a stunner. It's Gâteau Basque, somewhere between a pie and a tart, traditionally made with almond flour but this version also used duck fat. This rendition also features preserved cherries and cream on the side, giving the eater a chance to construct each bite. The duck skin gelato that accompanies it might sound strange, but it's smooth and delightful.

And yes, before you ask, foie gras is a main ingredient in two other dishes. Pouessel is already working on the next menu which is likely to feature fruits and vegetables and will probably debut in the spring. It's just another reason to look forward to winter being over.

DB Brasserie Venetian, 702-430-1235. Monday-Friday, 3-11 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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