Taste

Stay calm and soft-scramble on: Eggslut has arrived

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Eggslut is the latest new tasty thing at Cosmo.
Courtesy Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas

The breakfast sandwiches that have justified hours-long waits in LA have made their way to Las Vegas. Eggslut opens at the Cosmopolitan today, and it’s safe to say this is perhaps the most significant development in the history of breakfast sandwiches on the Strip.

Eggslut opens at Cosmopolitan June 10.

But before we get into how this happened, let’s focus on the food. In fact, let’s let Eggslut chef and co-founder Alvin Cailan break down some of his favorite items on the menu, to get you nice and hungry.

The Fairfax It features cage-free, soft-scrambled eggs with chives on a warm brioche bun with cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and sriracha mayo. “The Fairfax was originally our family meal sandwich, something we cooked just for ourselves,” Cailan says. “Now it’s one of the best-selling sandwiches and something that has won various kinds of recognition from food magazines and websites. And in terms of being customizable, it’s probably the best one because you can put bacon and/or avocado on it. In LA, it’s the favorite.”

The Slut This one is a coddled egg on top of potato purée with gray salt and chives, served in a glass jar with slices of baguette. “The Slut is our signature dish. It’s the definition of an eggslut in one bite, and it really shows off our technique and the quality of our ingredients, the whole experience. It’s my favorite breakfast, and I eat it with slices of bacon and some coffee. It’s rich.”

The Cheeseburger Cailan keeps it simple here. “I’m a burger junkie but I don’t like fancy burgers. Ours is done super-simple: meat, cheese, bun, egg, dijonnaise, a couple pickles to break through the richness, and sweet caramelized onions. It’s our baby.”

Alvin Cailan.

Alvin Cailan.

If you’re already on your way to Cosmo’s second floor to grab one or all of those, understood. Eggslut is all about making each ingredient in its seemingly simple sandwiches sing, a noble commitment that gets part of the blame for the long, long, long lines that have made it famous in Southern California.

That commitment and those lines are also responsible for bringing Eggslut to the Strip. Apparently, Cosmopolitan president and CEO Bill McBeath’s daughter, a California college student, is a devotee. “I guess she goes every week, and she [told] her father something was going on in LA and he should check it out,” Cailan says. “Sure enough, he came and saw what we were doing and the next thing I know, I’m getting bombarded with emails. I was like, the Cosmopolitan, what? This was just never on our radar. But he found us, and when I met him, he said, ‘You’re the guy who made me wait an hour and a half for a sandwich, and it was amazing!’”

And that was that. Now, the breakfast phenomenon that began as a food truck in the summer of 2011 and expanded to a brick-and-mortar location at downtown LA’s Grand Central Market in late 2013 is the next step in the Cosmopolitan’s dining makeover, which began with the recent opening of New York City’s Beauty & Essex on the third floor and will climax when David Chang opens Momofuku and Milk Bar just a few steps away from Cailan’s egg paradise.

“Being part of this place, [which already] had chefs like José Andrés and Scott Conant, is huge,” Cailan says. “It caught us off-guard, but we’re happy to be a part of it.”

Eggslut Cosmopolitan, 702-698-2344. Monday, Wednesday-Friday, 7 a.m.-7 p.m.; Tuesday, Saturday & Sunday, midnight-7 p.m.

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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...

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