Texas is big, and so is its namesake baked good: Texas toast—double-thick griddled slices of white bread. Texas Meltz, a new eatery on West Sahara, is looking to make its mark on the Vegas food map behind this glorious treasure—and the addition of lots of oozy cheese.

The recently opened spot features a retro, roadhouse-shack aesthetic and offers a slew of meaty sandwiches that arrive with your choice of cheddar, pepper jack, provolone, Swiss or Muenster. Named for Texas burgs, the sandos lasso in ingredients obvious—beef brisket on the Dallas and pulled pork on the Houston—and not so much, like the Waco (ham and pineapple) or the Wichita Falls (roast pork, pineapple and teriyaki sauce). Most are garnished with grilled onions between inch-thick planks of pullman loaf caramelized in garlic butter. Fresh lettuce, tomato and red onion slices are optional. Tater tots and chili lead the side selections, which also include onion strings, french fries and fried okra, along with a host of barbecue and hot sauce flavors for dipping.

Among Texas Meltz’s other main dishes are deep-fried baby back pork ribs, deep-fried smoked half chickens, half-pound cheeseburgers and mixed salads with tuna or chicken proteins. But the crisped gooey squashers are the proper place to start on a first visit. To paraphrase a favorite slogan drawled from the Panhandle to the Gulf Coast, don’t mess with Texas toast.

Texas Meltz 4604 W. Sahara Ave. #6, 702-202-1622. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.