Nothing is over $20, and the 16 by-the-glass selections range from the familiar (Sanford chardonnay), to the surprising (an amazingly good $9 Palacio Remondo rioja). All of it matches splendidly with Shawn McClain’s new American menu, and (for once) you won’t feel like they saw you comin’. At Aria at CityCenter, 3730 Las Vegas Blvd. S. Mon.-Sat., 5 p.m.-10 p.m. (877) 230-2742.