Steak tartare. It’s the best version I’ve had. Chef Dave Middleton uses hanger steak, which lends a bold, formidable texture. Classic additions like pine nuts, capers and mustard are there, mixed delicately with tarragon, a divine touch that sets this tartare apart. It’s crowned with a soft-poached egg yolk that lives somewhere between cooked and raw, still rich, runny and ready to bring it all together.

Torchon of foie gras. Hopefully Californians flooding Vegas to get their foie gras fix won’t overrun our lakeside gem once they discover this is the best foie dish off the Strip. Come to think of it, where else can you get foie off the Strip? The scrumptious accoutrement includes strawberry-jalapeño gelée and country bread toasted with duck fat, combining to form the most luxurious PB&J effect ever.

Red and green tagliatelle. Another of Middleton’s improvements is fresh-made pasta. This lobster and parsley-infused tagliatelle in a light, buttery sauce would be quite the accomplishment even without the sea urchin and roe that push the dish into flavor overload. Marche Bacchus has been a great neighborhood restaurant for years; this is but one dish proving that now, it’s essential.