José Andrés’ edgy eatery could take this award based on its awesome, one-of-a-kind, wood-fired cooking station alone. But taste wins out, and this traditional dish—even the veggie version!—is marvelously smoky, crispy-edged and not to be missed. Cosmopolitan, 698-7950. Sun-Thu, 5-11 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 5 p.m.-midnight.
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