Dining

Breaking down Bazaar Meat with José Andrés

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José Andrés looks to redefine the steakhouse genre with Bazaar Meat.
Andy Wang

José Andrés didn’t want to create just another steakhouse. “Steakhouses serve these big steaks,” he says. “The first piece is hot, and the last piece is cold. The way I like to eat is to try three or four cuts of meat. People should actually be eating less meat, and the meat they eat should be special.”

Bazaar Meat, his new concept opening at SLS, will have a “Game of Thrones-like open kitchen” with ovens that reach 600 degrees. But this is José Andrés, so he’s thinking well beyond roasting meat.

Coming soon: Bazaar Meat at SLS.

Meals might start with his famous caviar cones, seafood quesadillas and s’mores with foie gras. When it’s available, the chef will offer high-end seafood like abalone, sea urchin and huge 1½-inch-thick pieces of tuna he believes are as good as any steak. “And you’ll never hear us use the word ‘side,’” says Andrés, who wants to give vegetables like oven-roasted tomatoes, whole cauliflower and Brussels sprout leaves their proper respect.

But this is still Vegas, so if your party wants to go large-format with a whole ribeye, Andrés won’t stop you. The chef also imagines serving entire baby pigs, pig heads for tacos and enormous lamb legs.

Andrés, who’s also responsible for SLS’ Ku Noodle, knows the stakes are high at the new resort. “When people hear Bazaar, they think that’s the restaurant at SLS. When they hear SLS, they think that’s where that Spanish guy cooks.”

Soon, they might think of a next-generation meatery, a rival to nose-to-tail restaurants like LA’s Chi Spacca and New York’s M. Wells Steakhouse, places that have little in common with the monotony of ordering a steak and a side of creamed spinach.

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