Celebrated barbecue king Paul Kirk brings his special brand of smoky meats to the Rio. The ham, pastrami and pork butts are exemplary, and so are sides such as barbecued bacon chunks and pit baked beans. Like they say, fast town, slow cooking. Inside the Rio, 777-7777. Open 4-11 p.m. Mon.-Tue.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Wed.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri.-Sun.