Sculpted genius

If most chefs are tinkerers, pastry chefs are sculptors—and none more so than Francois Payard, the genius behind the new, opulently appointed Payard Patisserie & Bistro in a section of Caesars Palace directly across from Rao’s.

Simply bear witness to such creations as the chef’s George V, chocolate and vanilla mousse with caramelized peanuts inside a circular Sacher biscuit, or his green tea and lychee tart, set with the sliced Chinese fruit and green-tea marshmallows, and you’ll be convinced of this concept. Both are museum-quality objects that look almost too splendid to eat. Until you take that first bite.

The splendiferous display area offers guests the chef’s exquisitely crafted pastries, chocolates, truffles, jams and sauces, plus a crepe station, in a retail space that stretches languidly across the casino floor. But the real action here is in an inner-sanctum dining area that looks like the inside of a wedding cake—a circular room done with yellow walls and cream-colored banquettes.

In this room, which seats something like 40, Gregoire Gourreau, Payard’s executive chef (himself a veteran of Le Cirque and Mix), prepares food in a circular show kitchen in the center of the room, including a continental breakfast buffet, lunch and one of this country’s most eccentric dinner services, a post-theater, prix-fixe experience that is based on sweet and savory items best suited for dessert.

Payard, an ebullient Frenchman who is something of a superstar in New York City, has a wonderful touch with croissants, quiche and sandwiches, as well. In fact, he rose to fame as a dining-room chef, at one time heading the kitchen at La Tour d’Argent in Paris, and later doing a stint with Gilbert Le Coze at New York City’s celebrated fish palace Le Bernardin.

For my money, the $16 continental breakfast buffet is more than the best deal in the restaurant; it may be the best deal in town. Bagels and smoked salmon are offered, top-notch stuff with all the trimmings, along with fresh fruit salad, yogurt parfait, an assortment of breakfast pastries, various cereals, juices and coffee.

The bistro also serves imaginative à la carte breakfasts, such as a made-to-order vanilla waffle topped with fresh berries and whipped cream, or egg dishes like a classic Benedict on a croissant. Do real men eat quiche? They do when the quiche is as fluffy as this one.

Lunch is another matter. Judging from what the customers are eating, it’s mostly a soup-and-sandwich affair, except that the soup is a creamy French bisque or onion soup topped with a Gruyere hat, and sandwiches run to the croque Monsieur and fancy panini.

Croque Monsieur is the sandwich one of my college buddies calls a “snobby version of grilled cheese,” but that’s Bechamel sauce coating the bread, and ham inside. If you top it with an egg, sunny-side up, it becomes a croque Madame.

There is a delicious chicken sandwich with arugula, tomato and Parmesan cheese, and a nice salade Nicoise, plus the obligatory (in Vegas) burger, in this case dressed up in green peppercorn sauce. The bistro recently added hearty main dishes, braised short ribs and the rustic veal dish blanquette de veau, veal in a white sauce with carrots, peas and onions. If you don’t mind sifting sauce for microscopic quantities of meat, this is for you.

When Payard opened, the idea was that the bistro part would serve a unique prix-fixe dinner composed of three courses. The first, “Harmonie de Fromages et Fruits,” could be roughly translated as “symphony of fruit and cheese.” Then comes “The Orchard” and last, “Coffee, Caramel & Nuts.” The price for this exotica: $45.

This idea, apparently, works like a charm in New York, but so far does not appear to have captured the Vegas imagination. So now they’ve moved this menu up to 9 p.m., making it a meal you experience after seeing a show. It makes more sense in this context.

What you will eat is quite interesting, even amazing at times, and wickedly sophisto for any place outside New York or Paris. Imagine starting with an olive savory macaroon and continuing with a roasted pear with maple syrup and brown butter ice cream. Or finishing with a peanut butter Napoleon layered in milk chocolate and Rice Krispies. (If that doesn’t spike your blood sugar, you must be a Vulcan.)

Surprising dishes come in waves during this eccentric service, though I’m not sure I like the idea of eating three in one sitting. Warm ricotta tart with citrus and mint salad is delicious, drizzled with white balsamic vinegar. Seductive slices of seared pineapple are crowned with thyme, tapioca and coconut sorbet.

Payard has other hills to climb. The retail layout is confusing, and the entire space is in a corner of the casino you won’t pass by accident. Whatever. Rome wasn’t built in a day.

Payard Patisserie & Bistro

Inside Caesars Palace. 731-7751.

Suggested dishes: Continental breakfast buffet, $16; classic croque Monsieur, $14; three-course prix-fixe dinner, $45; pastries, $6-$6.50.

Photograph by Iris Dumuk