Not just meat and potatoes at STK

The Cosmo’s sceney steakhouse shines in the details

As expected, the steak at STK is yummy. It’s the little touches on every plate that make it memorable.
Photo: Beverly Poppe

There’s a bit of pickling going on at STK. The shrimp cocktail is deliciously askew—lightly pickled and spiced prawns served with a peppy cocktail sauce. And there are juicy bites of pickled tomatoes alongside that standard steakhouse salad of iceberg lettuce, blue cheese and smoky bacon. I like pickles, but even if you don’t, you should be able to appreciate the nice little touches that make this restaurant stand out.

The Details

The Cosmopolitan, 698-7900
Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-11 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5:30 p.m.-midnight
The shrimp cocktail is deliciously askew--lightly pickled and spiced prawns served with a peppy cocktail sauce.

The shrimp cocktail is deliciously askew--lightly pickled and spiced prawns served with a peppy cocktail sauce.

I’ve spent a lot of time in the last year eating and drinking amazing things on the third floor of the Cosmopolitan, but STK was never on my radar. I figured it was the least interesting place to eat at Cosmo, just another expensive Vegas steakhouse. (That, and I was discouraged by the never-ending parade of short-skirted girls and their hyper, dapper dates that flows through on the way to Marquee. I don’t trust the cool kids’ taste in food.) But when I finally visited on a quiet Sunday night, without any crowds or clutter, I was equally impressed with the dark, sexy, lustrous space and the simple, well-structured menu with those nice little touches.

One subtle head-turner was the bread basket, served with bright green chive oil and blue cheese butter. The popular appetizer at STK is miniature burgers, but I prefer a duck confit and frisée salad with sharp bits of cranberry and apple. Shrimp rice crispies is actually a rich bisque, and foie gras is done “French toast” style with almond brioche and more apple.

STK bills itself as a female-friendly steakhouse, but I’m not sure why. After all, women love beef and fancy restaurants. The top picks here are a rich, fatty skirt steak, 7 or 12 ounces; a flavorful bone-in filet; or a massive cowboy ribeye of 34 ounces. As they are everywhere, the steaks are wonderful, so look to the side dishes for more nice little touches: sweet corn pudding, mushroom pot pie or Parmesan truffle fries.

Educated assumptions about Strip restaurants are usually right, but I’m glad I took a shot at STK. It’s doing strong business, and the great food justifies the attention.

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Brock is an award-winning writer and reporter who has been documenting life in Las Vegas for 20 years. He currently ...

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