Dining

Seafood worth wading (through tourists) for: Mastro’s Ocean Club

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Get some tail at Mastro’s, an overlooked bastion of seafood mastery on the Strip.
Photo: Beverly Poppe

I fight an uphill battle. It isn’t easy to convince my fellow Las Vegans, my friends and neighbors, to make that drive to the Strip and struggle against the tourist current to experience a delicious but expensive dinner. Even though my mission continues, I understand that for many of us, it’s just not worth it.

The Details

Mastro's Ocean Club
Crystals at CityCenter, 798-7115
Daily, 5-11 p.m.

But for a lot of you, it is. So when I find a restaurant where the food is worth the big bucks, I’m gonna let you know. Mastro’s Ocean Club is a perfect example. It’s part of a group of steakhouses and seafood joints better known for locations in Scottsdale, Arizona, and Beverly Hills. Here, it’s a lavish space stretching into that crazy tree house in the center of Crystals, CityCenter’s oversized shopping mall. Mastro’s seems like the kind of place only lawyers and tourists visit.

The food is incredible. The seafood selection is unparalleled, starting with every variety of delectable, chilled shellfish imaginable. Everything is prepared simply and beautifully, from shrimp cocktail ($19) to live Maine lobster. There are steaks and chops, sure, but save the indulgence for side dishes big enough for four, like lobster mashed potatoes ($38), gorgonzola mac and cheese ($10) and Alaskan king crab black truffle gnocchi ($29). The portions and quality of the seafood justify the bill, and the style is impeccable: Don’t miss the arctic char oreganata, moist, delicate fish with a gentle coating of breadcrumbs, garlic and lemon ($38).

In other cities, Mastro’s is a dining institution. In Vegas, it’s overlooked.

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Brock Radke has been writing about Las Vegas for more than 15 years. He currently covers entertainment, music, nightlife, food ...

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Previous Discussion:

  • It’s operated by Cyndy Violette—World Series of Poker bracelet-holder, Ladies Poker Hall of Fame inductee and proud vegan.

  • The attentive staff cooks everything for you, so you don’t have to guess when your food is ready.

  • For $20 more you can get unlimited mimosas or rum punch or bloodys or Champagne or margaritas or beer. Now we’re brunching, people.

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