Taste

Twists come standard at 28GO

Image
Blue crab sliders at 28GO are panko crusted, with fresh tomato, citrus-scallion sauce and wasabi-lime aioli.
Photo: Leila Navidi

Pork ravioli, cold yogurt sake and a beer pong table with balls that wash themselves. It’s not a list for an impossible scavenger hunt; it’s 28GO. Chef Ty Suksangasophon named his fusion restaurant after a robot superhero, and the menu is accordingly brave. “I wanted to have a little more freedom in food,” he says. “I was burnt out with the norm.”

The Details

28GO
4632 S. Maryland Parkway #12, 895-9899.
Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.

Thanks to small plates (and prices), you can roam from Thailand to Japan or Korea to the American heartland, sometimes in the same dish. Buttery waffles come stuffed ($7-$8) with melon custard, sweet chicken curry or garlicky bulgogi beef. Herbal ramen ($8.50) offers the “all-natural Red Bull” of roots, pods and petals flavored with honey dates and tropical longan fruit. Blue crab sliders ($9.50) are eye-crossingly good, the panko-crusted cakes and fresh tomato drizzled with citrus-scallion sauce, wasabi-lime aioli and balsamic glaze on pillowy Hawaiian bread toasted till the sugars caramelize.

Another standout is the 28GO Roll ($7), a sushi riff that wraps grilled scallion and braised pork belly in housemade kimchee, the chili and fish sauce intensifying from the base of the leaf to the tip. Plating encourages that progressive experience of the dish, which is finished with sweet soy, togarashi (black sesame and dried chili) and Hot28 sauce.

Each creation shows Suksangasophon’s flair for playful marriages and presentation, hinting at his ongoing study of fine art at UNLV. He says that students are some his best customers, adding, “I love the fact that they trust in our adventures.”

Tags: Dining
Share

Previous Discussion:

  • Caramá honors the legendary chef and restaurateur’s mother, Maria, a chef who taught him to cook Italian cuisine when Puck was in his young teen ...

  • Save these the date for the return of Las Vegas Restaurant Week to benefit Three Square, returning June 3-14.

  • Chef Ben Goodnick is serving up a California-inspired menu focused on fresh ingredients at the new casino restaurant.

  • Get More Dining Stories
Top of Story