Taste

Bite Now: The Maserati at Peppermill

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This omelet is as big as a car and that’s the only similarity.
Photo: Brock Radke

I'm going to level with you: My hunger clock is all f'd up. I wake up in the morning craving tacos, pizza and burgers. And when I stay out too late and need a booze-absorbing meal in the wee hours, my stomach calls for pasta instead of the standard breakfast. And that's why I enjoy sidling up to the counter at the Peppermill and attacking the Maserati.

Omelet meets Italian food with this plate-sized monster ($12.95), a gigantic cloud of eggs bursting with two kinds of cheese, sausage and mushrooms. A generous slathering of homey tomato-meat sauce sprinkled with parmesan cheese places the Maserati firmly into the Late-Night Vegas Bite Hall of Fame and satiates my nostalgic (if badly timed) desire for a big plate of spaghetti like mom used to make. The crispy hash browns are pretty awesome, too.

The Peppermill is known more for its throwback decor and swanky old-school cocktail lounge than for culinary achievement, but I've found the food at this Strip stalwart hits the spot more often than not. And I haven't found any place that'll name a decidedly un-sleek omelet after a speedy Italian luxury car. You won't be moving anywhere fast with this Maserati, but it's worth the sluggish after-effects.

Peppermill 2985 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 735-4177. 24/7.

Tags: Dining
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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of editor-at-large at Las Vegas Weekly magazine. ...

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