As a resident of the western part of the Valley, I confess to a general disinterest in trekking to Henderson, and it’s my understanding that east-siders reciprocate the sentiment. But with the arrival of Bavarian Castle near Anthem, I have found reason to make the cross-town expedition.
Situated in the space briefly occupied by Meat & Three, the Castle is run by a recently immigrated German family. In case you were uncertain, just take note of the bilingual menus, the strong accents or The Sound of Music-ish wall mural. A quick sampling of the food also makes it apparent this is the real deal.
Begin with the potato pancakes ($9), which, while not listed as an appetizer, make for a great one. Three oddly shaped, crispy-fried potato patties are served with applesauce and deliver epic crunchiness in each bite. Don’t fill up—schnitzels await. Order the one smothered in creamy mushrooms ($17.50). The flattened, lightly battered, pan-fried pork provides a clean contrast to the robust mushroom sauce. Go off the reservation and order it with the outstanding spaetzle instead of fries; you won’t be disappointed.
Best of all may be a dish the menu doesn’t begin to do justice. The rouladen ($21.50) is described as “rolled beef filled with onion and pickles.” The savory, shredded beef is formed into a torpedo, wrapped around chopped onions, pickles and a house-made honey mustard and topped with rich gravy. The dish is tangy and complex and accompanied by disc-like dumplings unlike any others I’ve encountered. It’s ridiculously good, worth my distant trek all by itself.
Bavarian Castle 10890 S. Eastern Ave., 702-778-2800. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.