It’s easy to assume all Italian restaurants are the same, especially the seemingly similar offerings on the Strip. But there’s more variation than you think, from the homey fare at Buddy V’s to the classic New York red sauce sorcery at Rao’s.

And then there’s Martorano’s—straight-up Philly-style chicken parmigiana, magnificently massive meatballs, tender veal cutlets and no substitutions or deviations from the way Steve Martorano likes to cook. His party-starting Rio restaurant has been humming along for years, and now a second Vegas location has landed smack in the middle of the Strip at Paris.

The shimmering new joint is influenced by Martorano’s original Ft. Lauderdale spot, but the food remains the same—with a few sweet new arrivals. Don’t miss the Philadelphia water ice-inspired cocktails in fruity flavors, and save room for the simple-yet-decadent made-to-order waffle topped with house-made ice cream and fluffy whipped cream for dessert.

Martorano’s Paris, 702-946-4656. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight.