Growing up in Chicago’s South Suburbs, casual Greek restaurants dotted the landscape—family-run places serving standard American fare and a smattering of Greek specialties. A staple Sunday afternoon family excursion, our favorite was J N Michael’s Restaurant, where you were guaranteed to encounter an entertaining symphony of “Opa!” accompanying a procession of the iconic flaming cheese appetizer saganaki.
Now Las Vegas has a joint like that, thanks to a Greek family by way of Georgia—the state, not the country—in E&N Family Table Restaurant. And while there’s no saganaki to be found, there are other ethnic options.
The breakfast menu is fairly standard, so drop by later in the day when more unique dishes are available. To begin, look no further than your tabletop where the duo of tiropita and spanakopita ($4 each) are listed. These phyllo dough-layered pastries brim with stuffing, the former a cheesy egg mixture and the latter containing spinach and feta. Either is worth a bite, but I prefer the sharpness of the tiropita to the milder spanakopita.
The best dish on the menu—and one of the best dishes I’ve had this year—is the house specialty chicken souvlaki plate ($10). A pair of grilled chicken skewers arrives with rice pilaf, warm pita and creamy tzatziki. The fowl is well-seasoned with more than a hint of lemon. Light and flavorful, it’s a simple dish that more than makes up for the lack of flaming cheese.
E&N Family Table Restaurant 4460 S. Durango Drive, 702-382-0051. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m.