In the global sandwich pantheon, the Mexican torta is vastly underrated. Similarly, the food options at Downtown Container Park are often overlooked—especially Pinches Tacos. The chalkboard menu proclaims “We are here to save you from fake-sican food,” and they mean it. (Pinches is setting up to open a second location at the southwest Valley’s Gramercy project, too.)

All these tortas are constructed on a huge, puffy, lightly sweet bolillo roll, slathered with refried pinto beans, guacamole and sour crema. Your chosen meat—fish, chicken, carne asada, pork carnitas or al pastor—gets decorated with cilantro and onions, too. They’re all hearty and supremely savory, but the spicy-sweet, caramelized perfection of the al pastor might take the trophy. Or is it the huge, crispy fried fish sandwich? I can’t decide. Get both.

Pinches Tacos Container Park, 702-910-3100. Sunday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-11 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 9 a.m.-1 a.m.