Las Vegas needs great ice cream. I’ve been saying that for years, bemoaning the lack of local shops with snaking lines and gourmet windows serving flavors like Earl Grey and raspberry goat cheese. In Boston, buried under snow for months at a time, there are independent ice cream parlors in nearly every neighborhood. In San Francisco, Bi-Rite Creamery has a queue that stretches down the street in January. So how, in a city that sees about 300 days of sunshine each year, is there not more good, creative, fresh, homemade ice cream?
Of course, Downtown has Art of Flavors, the local gelato spot (close enough) known for its bold inventions (red onion marmalade gelato, anyone?) and endless parade of tasting spoons. And in January, west-siders welcomed Handel’s, an Ohio export beloved for its candy-loaded creations and four-scoop samplers.
Handel’s is not hipster ice cream. This is classic stuff, sweet scoops made fresh daily and served from a window with flavors like caramel pretzel crunch, key lime pie and chocolate cake batter posted on the board outside. The menu tends toward the Ben & Jerry’s model of packing as many swirls and candy pieces into each flavor as possible. That can make it difficult to distinguish one chocolate-infused treat from the next, but if you’re looking for a creamy dessert fix, you’ll certainly leave satisfied.
And that fresh ice cream line? It’s already forming.
Handel’s 10170 W. Tropicana Ave. #150. 702-749-9299. Daily, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.