Lucky Las Vegas is resplendent with worthy representations of Japanese izakayas, places like Raku, Kyara and Cocokala, where casually delicious drinking and multi-plate eating are a blissful experience. Now, tucked away at the corner of Spring Mountain and Valley View, the aptly named Izakaya Go is another fine example.

Begin your Go by perusing chalkboard-touted daily specials. Quality sashimi awaits, including outrageously good ocean trout ($9). But Go also loves uni, and you should, too. The unique uni shumai ($8) delivers unctuous sea urchin wrapped in soft dumplings, a rich and surprisingly un-briny bite. I only wish these morsels were served with traditional vinegar instead of spicy mustard. Another distinctive dish, torched uni ($9) arrives with a slightly smoky sear complementing its characteristic sweetness, easing the potentially difficult move of separating the uni from its wooden plank with chopsticks.

For a taste of Japanese street food, explore the takoyaki ($6), where deep-fried battered balls hide bits of octopus like a surprise treat. And whatever you do, don’t miss the enoki butter ($5), where thin mushrooms are delivered awash in butteriness with a swirl of pepper. It’s a devastatingly good dish and another excuse to go, now, to Izakaya Go.

Izakaya Go 3775 Spring Mountain Road #301, 702-247-1183. Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Friday & Saturday, 5 p.m.-3 a.m.