Food

Eating right during a Vegas staycation

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Soho’s menu—and specials board—are loaded with must-try Japanese treats.
Photo: Spencer Patterson

Instead of leaving town this holiday season, I just ate—or at least, that’s how it feels in retrospect. With 11 days off and no specific plans beyond spending time with family and recharging for the new year, I set out to fill my belly with as much good food as possible. I wound up dining out once (and sometimes twice) on all but two of those days, pausing only when a head cold wrecked my taste buds. I tried new spots and revisited old favorites, and after putting down my chopsticks and spoon after tonight’s terrific Monta finale, I made this list of my top five staycation dishes:

Ping Pong's Tom Yum Goong

5. Tom Yum Goong at Ping Pong. I strode into this strip-mall Thai spot adjacent to Sunset Park determined to knock out my illness, and left having fulfilled my mission, for a few hours, at least. As important: This shrimp, mushroom and tomato-filled hot and sour soup, thankfully prepared as I asked at a gum-tingling 4 out of 4 spice level, tasted great, too. I’ll go back and order it the same way even when healthy.

4. Spareribs at Pot Liquor. I’ve been in a barbecue funk since Top Notch closed its doors in late 2013, shaking out of it only during a visit to—and four-hour wait for—Austin’s world-famous Franklin Barbecue in May. Las Vegas’ newish Pot Liquor can’t touch Aaron Franklin’s brisket, but the Town Square joint’s spareribs are legit, meaty and dry-rubbed with a spice blend I daydream about between visits. Pair ’em with the spicy collard greens for a match made in ’cue heaven.

Sweets Raku's Nassy

3. Nassy at Sweets Raku. I’m not really a dessert guy, but Chinatown’s Sweets Raku—and its three-course prix fixe “meal”— is the exception to every food rule. On my second visit, I ordered the Nassy, a slice of pear pie (served with a dollop of salted caramel ice cream) that kinda blew my mind. I’d planned to work my way through all five main-course choices, but it’ll be tough not doubling up on this next time I’m there.

2. Shima aji nigiri at Soho. When I finally got to this much-buzzed-about sushi spot in the southwest, I almost punched myself for waiting this long to try it. The menu is well thought-out, the fish is super fresh and it’s a spot made for nigiri and sashimi addicts happy to pass on rolls. This striped jack was one of several memorable daily specials we tried, and making it even better, chef John Chien Lee—noting that we’d ordered several sea urchin dishes already—generously topped our shima aji with more of the delectable paste. You had me at uni, chef.

1. Sticky apricot pudding at David Clawson. Remember what I said about not being a dessert guy? Forget it. I’ve been to this critically acclaimed Anthem hot spot three times already, and I’ve ended each meal with this sweet-but-not-too-sweet concoction that also satisfies my chocolate-loving wife and our candy-crushing kid. Like everything at Clawson, this one’s made with skill and attention to visual presentation—and it’s the single best thing I’ve eaten in months.

Tags: Dining, Food
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