Late last month, LA’s iconic Roscoe’s House of Chicken N Waffles filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, making us fear for what is likely the most famous purveyor of this niche culinary offering. This should be of little concern to Las Vegans, though—not only is there no Roscoe’s here, we recently became the recipients of yet another C&W institution: Lo-Lo’s.
The original Lo-Lo’s is a true hole-in-the-wall in a yet to be gentrified neighborhood south of downtown Phoenix. Ours is a spacious standalone in the northwest’s Best in the West Shopping Center, formerly home to a Tony Roma’s. While it serves up a variety of Southern cuisine, it’s not called Lo-Lo’s Chicken & Waffles for nothing. So steer clear of the adequate grits and Hormel-esque chili (although the eggs with onions and cheese—literally just eggs covered with shredded cheese and diced onions—are interesting in a “What the hell?” kind of way), and save your calories for the namesake dish, available in seemingly limitless versions.
Lo-Lo’s could stand to season its chicken a tad more, but there’s no questioning its mastery of the deep fryer, resulting in crispy skin and supple meat. And the waffles, delivered with an ample dollop of butter—Lo-Lo’s isn’t exactly AHA-approved—are light, crisped right and rife with cinnamon, completing the always-dependable sweet and savory combo. Just make sure to get both in each forkful—the fowl makes for a more than adequate foil to the sugary breakfast staple. See, who needs Roscoe’s when you’ve got Lo-Lo’s?
Lo-Lo's Chicken & Waffles 2040 N. Rainbow Blvd., 702-483-4311. Monday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.