Hip steakhouse stalwart STK unveiled its first foray into brunch this month, probably a long time coming considering how natural daydrinking comes to the club-ready crew that makes up the restaurant’s target clientele. Judging from our first taste of this raucous new meal, it’s bound to be a fixture long into the future.
Brunch begins with complementary monkey bread—whimsically named STKy Bread—delivered by pajama-clad servers. You can lose yourself in a couple plates of this treat, dusted with brown and powdered sugar and accompanied by a sweet cream-cheese dipping sauce. As with his dinner offerings, executive chef Stephen Hopcraft has envisioned a brunch menu much better than it has to be. His smoked salmon is a deconstructed play on lox and bagels, layering the deli staple and cream cheese on bagel chips atop diced eggs and capers.
Don’t be afraid of the shrimp and grits, even though the menu description gives no indication of the eerily green jalapeño cheese grits that await. More traditional is the generously portioned STK n’ L’Eggs, a 12-ounce ribeye accompanied by eggs your way.
This is still brunch, so make good use of the bottomless Bloody Mary bar. Garnish as you wish, but I suggest a skewer of blue cheese-stuffed olives, cheddar cheese, bacon strips and a bit of Tajín and Worcestershire to finish. Enjoy your drink while entertainment sets vary between the sultry Christina Amato—belting out covers of Katy Perry, TLC and even Sisqó—and a house DJ. The room is festive, not made for intimate conversations; it might actually be easier to text your dining companion. But you’re not here to discuss the finer points of politics, right?
Sunday Brunch Club at STK Cosmopolitan, 702-698-7990. Sunday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.