A&E

Jean Georges Steakhouse redesigns a sublime experience

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Vongerichten is serving new food surrounded by a new look.
Photo: Evan Agostini / Invision/AP

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s luxurious namesake steakhouse has been a mandatory stop on the Vegas foodie tour since it opened inside Aria in 2009. While the quality cuisine and edgy decor kept it prominently placed on that map, a recent redesign couldn’t have come at a better time. With newer neighbors at Carbone and Bardot Brasserie pushing Aria’s restaurant reputation higher and higher, a jolt of fresh energy was due.

Jean Georges’ new look works on every level. The layout seems more spacious, and the restaurant’s different areas feel more connected. It’s still dark and sleek, but now there’s a secret steampunk society vibe.

Smooth new libations, like the excellent lavender gimlet, showcase personality without taking away from the food. A focus on cult wines from California helps sets the steakhouse apart from peers.

Tableside carving injects an interactive element; among those offerings are smoked Wagyu brisket coated in black peppercorn lacquer, and bone-in Chateaubriand, a nod to the classic training of the chef’s youth. A 32-ounce Wagyu tomahawk is a carnivore’s fantasy.

And it’s not just the meat that gets the upscale treatment. Dishes like Dungeness crab cake with snap pea remoulade and crunchy organic chicken with spinach and hot sauce are at once familiar and high-end.

Renovation? Welcome to the reinvention of Jean Georges Steakhouse.

Jean Georges Steakhouse Aria, 702-590-8660. Daily, 5:30-10:30 p.m.

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