Taste

From New Orleans to Mexico, Fish King Grill treats seafood right

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Come closer, the fried oyster poor boy awaits.
Photo: Steve Marcus

Las Vegas has high-end seafood restaurants putting out the freshest product available, and it also has casual and fast-food joints that fry into oblivion whatever they can get. But what about the in-between? What if you’re looking for a nice piece of fish but don’t want to break the bank?

Industry veteran Miguel Mercado is showcasing varied influences—at $10-$20 a meal—at Fish King Grill, two miles east of the Silverton. The restaurant’s website touts the chef’s “passion for New Orleans,” and that’s evident in much of his food. The po’ boys ($9.50-$13) are as good as any in the city and feature several different seafood options. Blackened catfish might not have the crunch of its fried counterpart, but the flavor more than makes up for it. The Paul Prudhomme-invented technique creates a spicy exterior and juicy interior for the fish, a perfect match for the crusty roll, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, pickles, tartar sauce and cocktail sauce.

All the different fish options here can be grilled with garlic butter, blackened or prepared Veracruz-style with a tomato-based sauce and garlic, olives, olive oil, peppers and capers. Look out for specials, like a top-notch fish and chips featuring flaky, beer-battered cod. With its large menu, friendly price point and excellent,

well-prepared product, Fish King Grill has filled the seafood void.

Fish King Grill 500 E. Windmill Lane #145, 702-844-1786. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Tags: Food
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