Taste

Starboard Tack serves up island-style snacks

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Starboard Tack makes it fun to eat while drinking.
Photo: Steve Marcus

Bryant Jane and Lyle Cervenka are a well-known duo on the local mixology scene. Boasting formidable résumés filled with some of the Valley’s best cocktail destinations—Vesper Bar, Atomic Liquors, Velveteen Rabbit and more—they recently brought another expectedly strong program to east-side bar Starboard Tack.

The real Starboard surprise is the concise food menu assembled by Jane. The menu is mostly split between pupus—island-style appetizers reflecting the Tack’s tropical and nautical themes—and a section “fo da’ haoles,” offering more standard American dishes, along with skewers thrown in for good measure. Pupus include longanisa empanadas ($6) stuffed with savory Filipino sausage, olives and egg, and fried chicken fried rice ($12), a dish so genius, it’ll make you wonder why you’ve never had it before. The poke of the day ($11)—tuna on a recent visit—is an unexpected find, rife with chili and vinegar undertones.

More standard bar fare includes the nicely charred Starboard cheeseburger ($9) with a kasundi (Indian chutney) mayo on a toasted black sesame bun, and a Mongolian cheesesteak ($11) with marinated tri-tip on a crisp baguette. The fish sauce-laden chicken wings ($11) are a funky, fabulous find.

Don’t overlook Jane’s outstanding skewers ($4 each or four for $13). Ranging from Szechuan chimichurri beef with hints of heat to toasted coconut-crusted shrimp, the meats-on-a-stick are an effective treat on their own. Paired with an addictive, spicy peanut sauce you’ll want to slather on everything, these simple sticks are fast becoming destination dishes.

Starboard Tack 2601 Atlantic St., 702-684-5769. 24/7.

Tags: Dining, Food
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