A&E

Henderson gem Served offers an array of adventurous dishes

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Served’s Guinness-braised short rib taco
Photo: Christopher DeVargas
Greg Thilmont

If you’ve driven along Horizon Ridge Parkway in the southeast Valley, you’ve probably passed by Served, one of the suburban food scene’s surprisingly lesser-known stars. Located near the back of a jumbled commercial complex, the compact, hidden-in-plain-sight restaurant has garnered an epicurean buzz for its stellar morning menu since it opened in 2016. Breakfast is a very Hendo thing, and one of Served’s selections is the house specialty Green Eggs & Spam ($13), with verdant Thai sauce and Filipino-style garlic rice on the side—a super-fun dish.

But Served has dinner hours, too. Even better, owner-chef Matt Meyer recently enhanced both his brunch and evening menus with some notable creations that mash up familiar comfort foods with adventurous flourishes.

Back in June, Meyer wowed the Hopped Taco Throwdown crowd with his winning Guinness-braised short rib tacos ($16). Now they’re on Served’s permanent roster, complete with fermented root vegetable salsa, herbed goat cheese and lots of beets.

Pinchi kimchi foie gras ($12) arrives as decadent seared duck liver on a rice pancake served with house-made kimchi, pickled radishes, Korean pear salad and crispy fried rice noodles with spicy soy-sesame notes.

Meyer probably makes the best Hollandaise sauce in all of metro Las Vegas. His numerous Benedicts alone are worth the trip to the Southeast. Take, for example, his newest take on an eggy classic: the Octopus Benny ($11), with mirin, corn, tomatoes and uni, is an exuberant umami assemblage that wakes the palate in the best way possible.

SERVED 1770 W. Horizon Ridge Parkway, #100. 702-263-0136 Monday-Tuesday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.; Wednesday-Sunday, 9 a.m.-9 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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