Town Square isn’t my favorite place. It’s a giant strip mall with mediocre dining, and even its parking meters, unenforced as they might be, irk me. Now, it’s home to Meatball Spot—former Rao’s and Bacio executive chef Carla Pellegrino’s latest venture—which by default inherits the mantle of Town Square’s best culinary option.

Admittedly, the eponymous meatballs are fairly memorable. Options vary from traditional (beef, pork or Classic, blending beef, pork and veal) to healthier choices, including turkey and chicken. The classics work the best, with the particularly juicy pork my top pick overall.

Along with your meatball, you also select your sauce—from a classic tomato and a not-so-spicy spicy meat sauce to a creamier mushroom gravy and a Parmesan cream. I suggest sticking with the classics here, too; that’s where Pellegrino excels.

Three meatballs come with each $7 order in a bowl just deep enough to be slightly difficult to eat from. An easier vehicle is the exemplary French baguette, which is utilized for both the Meatball Smash (two meatballs for $5) and the Hero (three for $7). Add some provolone ($1) to either of those, and you’ve got a damn fine meal.

Salads balance the meat-laden menu, and the panzanella bread salad is a solid choice. But don’t bother with the pizza, which is rather forgettable. Instead, save room for dessert. Creative milkshakes ($7) and the unique bananas foster ice cream sandwich ($6) are worth the caloric splurge.

Service ranged from amenable and attentive to virtually nonexistent, varying not only between visits but during.

So I wouldn’t recommend dealing with Town Square simply to seek out Meatball Spot. But if you find yourself there while holiday shopping, it’s worth checking out, if only to grab a warm meal at a reasonable price.