A hearty, homey member of the noodle family, pici is better known by its decidedly American moniker: “fat spaghetti.” Tuscan roots lend the hand-rolled pasta street cred, and it chews so tender. Scott Conant ups the ante with sweet lobster, licorice-y tarragon and almond-chili pesto. It’s a plate-licker. Cosmopolitan, 698-7960. Daily, 6-11 p.m.
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