Las Vegas has more than a few fancy French restaurants offering spectacular views. Among them, Alizé might not be first in your mind, but maybe it should be. Local legend Andre Rochat’s flagship restaurant is at Monte Carlo, but his gorgeous, intimate room atop the original Palms tower is the one you really want.

Chef Mark Purdy and his fiancé and pastry chef Tammy Alana are crafting bold, creative cuisine here, breaking through the restrictions of classic French. Their menu will be changing again soon, but among its current stars are one of the city’s best takes on foie gras, pan seared over an apple-almond crumble and port reduction, along with luscious pork belly with white cheddar polenta and Colorado lamb with marcona almonds and a merguez sausage croquette.

Alizé’s tasting menu (seven courses for $135) is varied and glorious, a remarkable meal to match memorable service and setting. There are three choices with each course, including a no-slouch vegetarian option. Start with a Maine lobster salad with crisp celery root and green apple and shavings of house-made lobster “truffles” created from roe. Continue with a dish of roasted mushrooms and konnyaku noodles in miso and sesame broth, then a king crab leg croustillant, wrapped in phyllo with black truffles. For dessert, warm pear beignets and maybe a little port. Revisiting this restaurant was a great idea: It’s the best meal I’ve had so far this year.