1. The Trio ($13), because I wanted to sample as many meats as possible. Billed as a combo plate, it’s really an aluminum foil-lined plastic basket with three spicy sauce-slathered meat heaps—juicy pulled pork, sliced hot link and sliced beef brisket—plus a cup of jalapeño coleslaw, two pickle coins and a roll cut in half (so you can make a mini sandwich, duh). The pork was no-nonsense, all perfect texture; the brisket was deeply imbued with smoky flavor; the hot link was hot as hell and created sweat beads on my head. Awesome.

2. The Catfish Plate ($9) with a slice of caramel cake, by one of three cute girls who ordered after me, none of whom looked like they could take down this seriously hearty food. But they did, fast. I didn’t even see that cake; they inhaled it. The catfish looked tasty.

3. The BBQ Sundae ($8), by the guy who ordered after the girls, who acted like he comes to Rollin Smoke every day and orders the same thing. The BBQ Sundae is a parfait, really, a tall plastic cup layered with mashed potatoes, baked beans, pulled pork and coleslaw. You work your way down, cold to hot. He plugged in for a conference call while happily forking through this delicious mess. Barbecue in a cup, folks. –Brock Radke