Sea bass and haddock carpaccio with radish, sea beans and potato-horseradish ice cream becomes more than a beautiful dish when you’re asked to guess components by candlelight. But even a simple plate of fresh-baked breads with imported French butter demands that you worship the sensory engineering. Pierre Gagnaire, you are an evil genius. Mandarin Oriental, 888-881-9367. Tue-Thu, 6-10 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 6-10:30 p.m.

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