Suburban suds: Old School Brewing Company is a proper beer spot for the West

Old School Brewing Company will rotate all taps minus its Imperial Stout, which hasn’t even made the menu yet.

The brew-ification of Las Vegas continues. The latest homegrown operation to hit the local suds scene is Old School Brewing Company, a suburban brewpub across the street from Desert Breeze Park.

A simple space, Old School is comfortably casual with high-tops and chairs lining the bar, a chalkboard listing the day’s taps and television screens throughout. A kitschy wall of brewing-centric photos and a handful of gaming machines complete the modest lounge, which also features an attached 200-seat restaurant with a decidedly eclectic menu (roasted beet grilled cheese, anyone?).

Former Barley’s brewmaster Jim Wilson helms the beermaking, and Old School will routinely feature new beers on draft—Wilson says only its Imperial Stout will be a permanent fixture, and that hasn’t even hit the menu yet—with remaining taps mainly devoted to beers from other local breweries. At press time, its lineup of originals included the Homeroom Hefeweizen, Pale Ale 101, Varsity Vanilla Porter, ABCD ESB (Extra Special Bitter) and Irish Red Ale.

Our favorites from Old School’s inaugural crop:

Irish Red Ale At 6.5 percent ABV, this is the strongest brew currently on offer (Wilson is focusing on sessionable beers). And with a toasty malt and crisp bite at the end, it’s my favorite from the first pours.

Varsity Vanilla Porter With subtle notes of vanilla in the dark and velvety brew, this dessert-like porter is a great nightcap for brew enthusiasts: full-bodied, yet not overpoweringly sweet.

Old School Brewing Company 8410 W. Desert Inn Road, 702-273-9782. Restaurant open daily, 10 a.m.-11 p.m.; bar open 24/7.

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