Stack at The Mirage is more than good food and drinks. It is another coup for The Light Group which owns and operates ultra-chic night life properties in Las Vegas--Light Nightclub and Caramel Bar & Lounge at Bellagio, Mist at TI and Jet Nightclub at The Mirage.
It was a given that restaurants would be the next challenge for The Light Group and The Mirage, the hotel that introduced the concept of the destination resort in 1989.
The first Light Group eatery to open was Fix at Bellagio in 2004. Whimsical and witty, the menu includes Kobe beef sliders with aged cheddar, grilled onions and fries and Kobe chili cheese fries.
It wasn't too long after Fix that Stack opened at The Mirage. It's another winner for The Light Group and the entire restaurant management team.
At a recent dinner, I was dazzled by the extensive selection of appetizers. I wanted to do the whole appetizer list. My dining companion, who knew well the carte, was reluctant. "Let's do at least one main course. You can order the apps."
While we were deciding what to order, along came freshly baked rolls, stacked and secured with a skewer. A new roll was being introduced--cheddar cheese and bacon. I carefully sliced off one corner of the warm roll. One bite and I was in love. A slightly crisp crust was super; the tender interior was layered with bacon and cheese. The yeasty interior was creamy and sweet and seductive.
Pigs in a blanket, cocktail franks wrapped in flaky pastry, arrived in a deep bowl that contained at least 15 two-bite franks. We downed those critters as if we were little kids competing for the last pig. Of course, we didn't eat all of them, but we wanted to.
The food at Stack is meant to be shared. Good intentions were swept under the table as we ate mini tacos filled with spicy tuna tartar and mini crab cakes with sauce remoulade. The four tacos were nestled in a wee taco holder; the four Lilliputian crab cakes were arranged in a skinny white porcelain plate. Chef Brian Massie is a master seasoner. Nuances of flavor titillated the palate, zinging their way through.
A small oval of basil-lime sorbet, barely sweetened, was an ideal bridge between appetizers and the main course.
We ordered two entrées. Our plan was to order one, but my companion wanted lobster and I wanted the lamb shank. Her lobster was perched atop a bed of mashed potatoes and artichokes studded with kernels of sweet corn. My lamb shank was glazed until it was mahogany brown. The meat had been partially separated from the bone and set on end so that it resembled a bird in flight.
Stack offers many vegetable and potato dishes. Sauteed spinach and honey-baked sweet potato were my choices; my companion's plate was a complete meal. We also tasted Massie's distinctive mac and cheese. The sauce was a mix of cheeses, including Brie, and bacon.
Dessert was a stretch, but we didn't falter. Banana brûlée served in a shallow serpentine dish and delectable jelly-filled doughnuts piled high in a takeout container. Kids love Stack (bring them early). The mini food with maximum flavor is just the right size.
"Fix and Stack are casual-hip alternatives to the many formal dining establishments in town," said Oliver Wharton, director of restaurant operations. Massie and Wharton covered all bases--pre-theater, late-night dining or drinks and small plates in the restaurant or lounge.
Stack's decor, lighting and sound are wonderful. Graft, the award-winning firm that also designed Fix, has stacked the mahogany walls and embraced the guests.
Stack ... excellent food, drink and service in a relaxed, cutting-edge environment.