Dining

One Meal: Poke Express

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Poke from Poke Express
Photo: Wes Gatbonton

Tiny squares of deliciousness. That’s how I refer to poke (pronounced: POH-kay). The Hawaiian raw-fish salad is supposed to be an appetizer, but I’m convinced I could buy pounds of it and eat it—and only it—all day. Luckily, you can get pounds of it (or just half- or quarter-pound servings, if you’re a little less ambitious) at Poke Express, the tiny deli-style counter tucked inside Island Sushi (9400 S. Eastern Ave.). My go-to varieties are the spicy and furikake ahi, but everything offered is a light, flavorful and inexpensive delight for your mouth.

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  • Tender wrappers, each plumped up to the size of a playing card, swaddle a juicy pork/vegetable blend worthy of being trumpeted on the marquee.

  • La Monja will be a Mexican-style raw bar, while Hatsumi will offer a more elegant experience, focused on traditional robata and irori grilling.

  • Head to the bar for executive chef Mark Andelbradt’s counter-only menu and prepare for a range of explosive flavors.

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