Perhaps the pandemic has stripped any remaining sense of decorum from your takeout ritual, and now you’re like me. Could be a pizza, could be noodles, doesn’t matter—I’m snacking on the way home. Sometimes the food doesn’t even make it into the vehicle; I’ll use the car as my table and scarf it down standing up.

And I have a new parking lot picnic favorite. Pollos El Dorado is a true hidden gem, an inconspicuous eatery that’s been serving standout grilled chicken for more than three years near the corner of Russell and Mountain Vista.

There are plenty of other Mexican favorites on the menu, from burritos and tortas to carne asada fries ($8.50) and trendy birria tacos with consommé ($3 apiece). But you’re just not doing it right if you don’t leave this place with an incredible whole-chicken deal ($16) that includes tortillas and two side dishes like rice, beans, coleslaw and fries.

When it’s hot off the grill and doused with house-made green, red or orange habanero salsa (the latter is my favorite), this bird is bliss. Crispy, savory skin is the beginning and end with other versions of this simple dish, which are almost always too dry. Pollos El Dorado uses a magical marinade that keeps the meat perfectly moist and tender. It’s simply the best possible version, and my developing theory is that it tastes even better when feasting on the hood of a dusty Corolla. Take down the drumsticks first, then pick apart the bigger pieces using a warm corn tortilla to soak up the flavors and spicy salsas.

The banner outside claims it’s the best grilled charcoal chicken in Las Vegas, but I’m boosting it up. Now that I’ve discovered Pollos El Dorado, my twin addictions to hot wings and fried chicken sandwiches have been extinguished.

POLLOS EL DORADO 5717 Merrill Ave., 702-434-0767. Daily, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.