The Stratosphere Tower is a lighthouse keeping an eye on the vibrancy below. There is bustle and much hustle and a constant moving party that takes on a different appearance depending on the amount of sunshine cast upon the players. From the Bonanza World's Largest Gift Shop at the southernmost tip to Cashman Field at the north, from the railroad tracks defining the west boundary over to the Huntridge development on the east—it's the sector commonly known as Downtown Las Vegas.
By day, it's mostly inhabited by lawyers, business types, fresh-faced tourists and seemingly innocuous transients. By night, the lawyers are replaced by all-night bail bondsmen, the tourists have lost their sheen and transients transform into suspects being surveyed by the vigilant police.
Someday, the yin and yang of Downtown will be seen as the beautifully fluid "one" it really is, but many are reluctant to open their minds. Maybe it would be better if the same folks at least opened their mouths—put aside their fear of the seemingly scary Downtown area to proceed towards some of the better eats. Perhaps all that's been missing is a handy guide to the exact location of the non casino-treats that grace Downtown—maybe even one of those top-10 lists? Hmmmm?
Andre's French Restaurant
401 S. 6th Street, just off the Strip
Despite delivering a wallop on the wallet, dinner at Andre's is the romantic gift to a loved one that will pay for itself when your date's gratitude is tallied. It's been said that writing about music is like dancing about architecture. Since the food delights at Andre's are like a symphony, it's foolhardy to go on, but understand that once you find this converted 1930s residence, you will never dance the same way. To many food fanatics, it's not just the best of Downtown—it's the best of Nevada.
Chicago Joe's
820 S. Fourth Street, next to Kinko's
Another charming old home converted into a fine eatery, this one serving up classic Italian fare. Clams, homemade pasta, a stellar eggplant parmesan served piping hot in its own casserole plate and a bevy of quirky but attentive waiters—what's not to love? While prices rise significantly in the evening, there never seems to be a shortage of customers, and you may actually have to wait outside for your table to avoid looming over some lady and her marinara and really, no one wants to see that.
Tinoco's Bistro
103 E. Charleston, on the east side of the Arts Factory
This is the only location with original chef Enrique Tinoco. People who hate mushrooms love his cream-of-mushroom soup, and pretty much anything else Enrique puts into a bowl and serves with a spoon. As part of the larger Arts Factory experiment, Tinoco's is the finishing brush stroke. Peaks during lunchtime with professionals delighting on all sorts of fresh-fish dishes and creative pastas. Nighttime still thin because of the sketchy appearance of the surrounding area. Is it really that bad a neighborhood?
Florida Café
1401 Las Vegas Blvd. S., inside the Howard Johnson
Authentic Cuban cuisine from plantains to flan. Delivers some of the best ropa vieja, chorizo and Cuban sandwiches in Las Vegas, in a comfortable setting that far outclasses (and out-prices) nearby competitors. You will see discriminating eaters here loading up with menu items alongside the lucky brides and grooms who duck in for a quick bite before the nuptials at the Shalimar wedding chapel across the lobby.
Tiffany's
1700 Las Vegas Blvd. S., inside White Cross Drugs
The old counter used to be known as the Liberty Grill, but it received a face-lift of sorts. Still, a couple of gallons of paint, some new stools and a name change shouldn't fool anyone. Whether it's grilled cheese and fries or trout and onions (no joke), this place puts the "great" in "greasy spoon." And for aspiring writers, might we suggest corned beef hash at 4 a.m. while you observe a cast of characters that will someday inspire your great Las Vegas novel—just resist the temptation to call it Breakfast at ...
Esmerelda's Mexican/Salvadorian
1000 E. Charleston Blvd.
Sure, there are older, more established places Downtown that serve up one or the other south-of-the-border cuisines, but have you tried the carne asada here? Always crowded with neighborhood residents for a reason.
Ocha at Thai Town
1201 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
The adjoining bar is a trip. Same with the karaoke. The key, however, is the stellar tom yum soup. Turn up the heat, drop in the coconut milk and watch out for the flame. Then hit the road. There are other nearby places for more friendly Pad Thai and other essentials.
Bay City Diner
1 Fremont Street, inside the Golden Gate hotel
Sure, it's a casino treat, but eating in this 1906 treasure of a building is its own reward. Take the time to look around at the artifacts, then enjoy affordable comfort food in the back area of this clean, attractive little diner. Friendly staff combined with good eats makes the experience. And, yes, this is still the home of the impossibly inexpensive shrimp cocktail.
Strip Sandwich Shop
603 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
Nestled almost invisibly between Bingo Bail Bonds and a defunct wedding chapel, this 9-3 hole in the wall with the long counter and the meat display case doesn't look like much. Sure, there's a crowded lunch scene and a bunch of murals commemorating Downtown buildings, but there's no larger-than-life character like Max C. (who used to run this space) spouting off diatribes about Pepsi and unscrupulous lawyers. Still, for a nice pastrami sandwich with a pickle and random pop-ins from any variety of Vegas players, this has become the little deli that could.
Luv-It Frozen Custard Stand
505 E. Oakey, in the south parking lot of Olympic Gardens
OK, it's not a restaurant, but it is heaven-sent. Better then any ice creamery in the city. And here's a new twist—ask for the Luv-stick in any flavor you want, all year-round. Those with addictive personalities, you have been warned.