BOTTOMS UP: More Than Riesling

Germany produces range of wines

Francesco Lafranconi

The origins of German wine can be traced to the Roman Empire, which ruled the region about 100 B.C. and introduced grape cultivation. During the Middle Ages, monastic orders founded some of Germany's finest vineyards. Coming from probably the most northern of wine-growing European countries, German wines are known to be among the most delicious and lightest white wines in the world, with low alcohol content, good balance and fruity, subtle nuances.


The only way to understand this intriguing world is to taste, taste, taste.


German wines are suitable for every occasion, and are light, fruity and refreshing. Serve the whites chilled to about 50 F, rosé a couple of degrees warmer, and reds at about 64 F.


German whites are among the most versatile wines, and great when matched with Asian food, especially hot and spicy dishes.


According to the German Wine Institute, the country has nearly 240,000 acres of vineyards, 87 percent of which are planted with white-grape varities; quite the opposite compared to the rest of the world.


Germany's wine regions stretch from the French border to the Elbe River, but are concentrated in the southwest. What makes each wine unique are the microclimate, and direction and inclination of the slope.


Riesling is probably the best known German variety, with a pronounced acidity, rich aroma and great balance because of a long ripening period that ends in October or November.


The most popular white grape is Müller Thurgau, planted in nearly a quarter of German vineyards. The varietal was created in 1882 and has a flowery bouquet, milder acidity than a Riesling, and a slightly muscat flavor. It's best drunk while fresh and young.


Silvaner is another well-known variety, with a neutral bouquet and mild acidity.


German red varieties are often lighter than Italian reds and little is exported. The major varieties are Spätburgunder, a pinot noir; Portugieser, originally from Austria's Danube Valley; and Trollinger.


The German wine-producing area is divided into 13 regions, with vineyards divided into 39 Bereiche or districts.


The wines of the Mosel River region and its tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer, are richly fragrant, pale in color, and light-bodied with a lively, fruity acidity.


Rheingau is home to some of the world's oldest wine-growing families. It was here that the unique value of the Botrytis Cinerea "noble" mold, responsible for the great flavor of sauternes, and the Spätlese, or late harvest, were recognized. In this soil and climate, Riesling was developed to perfection, producing noble and elegant wines.


Pfalz produces more wine than any other region. The wines are pleasant, rich in bouquet and body. Baden is the most southern region, with diverse soils that range from gravel to limestone, and volcanic stone to shell-lime. Its wines are fresh, fragrant, spicy and aromatic, with velvety, full-bodied reds. The average per capita consumption by people in this area is 53 bottles a year.



Label glossary



Tafelwein: Simple table wine.


Qualitätswein: From one of the 13 specified wine-growing regions and approved grape varieties.


Qualitätswein mit Prädikat: Quality wine with special distinction.


Kabinett: light wines of fully ripened grapes, excellent by the glass.


Spätlese: Late-harvest wines with more intense flavor and concentration, but not necessarly sweet. Good with food or alone.


Ausles: "Noble-rot" wines with intense bouquet and taste, but not always sweet.


Beerenauslese: Individually selected, over-ripe grapes, remarkably rich, sweet dessert wines.


Eiswein: Harvested and pressed frozen grapes, with a concentration of fruity acidity and sweetness.


Trockenbeerenauslese: Only overripe, individually selected grapes, dried up almost like raisins, making a rich, luscious, honey-like wine.



Cortéz

Place a bottle of Gran Centenario Reposado tequila in the freezer for four to six hours. Chill a wine glass and add 5 oz of Schloss Vollrad Rheingau Spätlese 2001 (one of the best vintages) and 1 oz of Gran Centenario Reposado. Stir and serve without ice


Zum Voll!



Francesco Lafranconi, a master mixologist, is a beverage specialist for Southern Wine and Spirits and the director of the Academy of Spirits & Fine Service.

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