Max Jacobson, the Weekly's restaurant critic, needn't worry. I'm hardly one to review the nuanced tastes of high cuisine. I'm strictly a microwaver, lucky enough not to overheat bagged popcorn. Yet I've been wanting to write about my favorite long-established haunts since The Venetian Italian Restaurant on Sahara and Valley View was shut down in November 2003, ending a 48-year run.
Hold on, I'm about to get sentimental here. But I don't think sentiment is a bad thing, not when it motivates you to re-evaluate—and perhaps even appreciate more sincerely—some of the long-standing grub hubs that have had the fortitude to stick around. In a city where restaurants come and go at the ficklest of inclinations, that's no small task.
So I've re-evaluated, reappreciated—and cooked up a list. For a restaurant to be on it, it had to meet my three criteria:
1.) It has to have been in business for 25 years. There's no science to this, it just seemed like a solid number—one-quarter of the town's history.
2.) It must be consistent in its location. With such a whirlwind of building over the years, it says something when an restaurant can dig in its heels and man the trenches. After all, you don't always have to adapt to the more affluent demographics. If you've got the goods, the customers will come to you.
3.) It can't be attached to a casino. It has to be making it on its own. So, my deepest apologies to Hugo's Cellar at the Four Queens and The Steakhouse at Binion's Horseshoe.
Now, let's dig in.
Hill Top House Supper Club
3500 N. Rancho Drive
645-9904
Opened in 1961
About two miles north of the North Las Vegas Airport, way out by the corner of Rancho Road and Jay Street, sits a small, single-leveled suburban home, clouded by shrubbery; it could not look more unassuming. On closer inspection, you'll see a flickering pink neon sign, a small parking lot and an advertisement for frog legs—yep, it's the Hill Top House. It's been a staple of the city's ever diminishing supper club circuit since 1961, and the last 32 years have seen the place kept up lovingly by owners Stan and Valerie Wojtowicze. It's worth stopping by just for the trappings that they've developed over the years: fake potted plants, worn-down vinyl chairs, leatherette folder menus with old-time, optima-styled lettering (remember the title credits from those old bike-safety pictures in third grade?), Christmas-colored lights (green, red and white) that decorate the small bar 365 days of the year, and charming waitresses who call you "hon" or "darlin'."
Fortunately, the edibles are as charming as the atmosphere. The menu is full of such great items as the aforementioned frog legs, orange roughy, steak, crabs and the special—fried lobster. You vegetarians also have an option, a corking-good salad bar complete with crisp, fresh lettuce, solid variety of dressings, healthy helpings of cold cuts and cheeses, plus delicious sides like corn relish, carrot slaw, marinated beans, and potato salad—all-you-can-eat for a mere $7.50.
Peppermill Inn
2985 Las Vegas Boulevard S.
735-4177
Opened in 1972
How any longtime resident can't have set foot in this place is beyond me. There's the decor: erupting volcanos, plush, butter-soft couches, preciously tacky silk flowers adorning the tables and an overwhelmingly mauve color scheme—you can't get any more authentic than early-'70s retro. The food is not only first-rate, it's huge.
Remind yourself of that moment during the closing credits of The Flinstones, the part where the waitress places the big heap of brontosaurus that tips Fred's car over. The burgers and gyro sandwiches are more than a little filling, and the chef salad, complete with whole vegetables like tomatoes and avocados, can keep you content for days. A side treat of the Peppermill is that if you keep your ears open, it's a great place to eavesdrop, particularly on the cab drivers and police officers who frequent the place.
Bob Taylor's Ranch House
6250 Rio Vista St.
645-1399
Opened in 1955
When I was kid growing up in Vegas during the '70s, Bob Taylor's held an almost mythical fascination. Because it was so far away from the city, my parents would take my sister Karen and I in the family's Volkswagen van, as if we were going on a long road trip. I can still hear my dad instructing me, "Michael, don't drink any of that damn Kool-Aid before we go. It's a long trek and I'm not stoppin' for you to take a leak!" Out in the middle of nowhere, Taylor's Ranch House was, at the time, the place in town to get mesquite-grilled T-bone and porterhouse steaks.
Time has taken a little of the mysticism off this place (it's now just off the I-215 Beltway) and there are other places in town to get mesquite-flavored meats. But the food, presentation (you can't help but stare as those steaks crackling on the grill in front of you), and the fact that this was a popular hangout for Elvis back in the day (note the signed photos), all make Bob Taylor's a singular dining experience. It's tad costly—a full meal for one will be at least $20, but the all-you-can-eat ribs special on Tuesdays is not a bad deal.
Omelet House
2160 W. Charleston Blvd.
384-6868
Opened in 1978
There are three Omelet Houses in the city, but the long-standing one on Charleston and Rancho gets the nod for this list. It's just blocks from UMC, and on a busy day, the restaurant does resemble a casting call for a St. Elsewhere episode; this shouldn't prevent you from indulging in one of this city's great breakfasts. Because the variety of omelets can be overwhelming, I'll offer my two favorites for starters: the Veggie (chock full of onions, broccoli, cheese and the like) and the glorious Bugsy Siegel (Italian roast beef and sour cream). Be sure to grab some of the heaven-sent pumpkin bread!
Fong's Gardens
2021 E. Charleston Blvd.
382-1644
Opened in 1955
Originally owned by Wing Fong, one of the earliest and most successful Asian immigrants to prosper in Las Vegas, Fong's Garden will soon be approaching its 50th year in the restaurant biz. The secret of Fong's success? Most likely, it's that they've followed the El Sombrero Cafe's working formula: quality food at the right price. A majority of the entrées clock in at under $10, and while the food isn't extraordinary, I can dependably get a hot plate of shrimp fried rice and beef lo mein very quickly, and I've never complained about the food. And for those so interested, rumor has it that there is a mean karaoke crowd packing Fong's practically every night of the week. If that's your cup of hot tea, go for it.
The Hush Puppy
7185 W. Charleston Blvd.
363-5988
Opened in 1975
One of the pleasures of an old-school eatery is that it doesn't compete with chains and up-and-coming restaurants. It has an established hook, a specialty that keeps the locals coming back. The Hush Puppy is no exception. Its terrific all-you-can-eat catfish special is a sinful, anti-Atkins treat all the way. For a little more than $10, you'll get a whole Louisiana catfish dipped in corn meal and deep-fried. The sides include coleslaw, hush puppies and green-tomato relish. The fried oysters and crab legs are also worth trying.
The Golden Steer
308 W. Sahara Ave.
384-4470
Opened in 1958
As steakhouses go, The Golden Steer is the classic archetype. Management likes to boast of its noted clientele—Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis and yes, even Joey Bishop have all graced the premises.
What about the food, you ask? Well, suffice it to say, an excellent array of choice cuts of meats are a given here. I can never get enough of their superb prime rib.
Best of all is the Steer's service. The waiters and busboys are almost pathologically attentive. Bread is always on the table, and your iced tea or coffee never stays empty.
El Sombrero Cafe
807 S. Main St.
382-9234
Opened in 1950
El Sombrero has been in business for 54 years, and those who eat here have no problem understanding why. It has all the consistency of a top-notch restaurant: fine service, leisurely atmosphere, nice interior art, affordable prices and above all, good food. The taco salad is generously lavished with sour cream and avocados, and the burrito plates, served with the tangiest green chile sauce, more than satisfy a needy appetite. Don't forget to wash it all down with a cool glass of horchata. A true gem.
Chicago Joe's
820 S. Fourth Street
382-5637
Opened in 1979
A quaint little place set in an old, brick-layered residential house in the heart of Downtown, Joe's is an ideal spot for both the curious tourist and the workaday employee. Excellent lunch specials include some pasta dishes and their signature submarine sandwich (packed with Genoa salami, ham, pepperoni, mozzarella, onion, lettuce, tomato and Italian dressing). The quality doesn't drop off for dinner, with the veal picante earning raves from almost everyone who has tried it. The place is small, and the service, although good, can be a bit studied (read: slow but accurate), but that's nitpicking in an otherwise fine restaurant.
Macayo's
1773 E. Charleston Blvd
382-6205
Opened in 1963
This local chain has been an institution for 40 years, but this branch, off Charleston and Bruce, stands as my favorite because the frozen margaritas are by far the best in town (that is, they don't hold back on the tequila). As for the food, you can't go wrong with appetizers like the bean of artichoke dip or the chile relleno scores; and the veggie burrito is as delicious as it is enormous. The only drawback is the location. I'm sure this was the happening spot in 1963, but the roaming denizens of East Fremont Street nowadays don't exactly strike me as pillars of society. Still, I continue to venture here for the food and drink, and nothing dicey has ever happened.